Titi de
Paris and I just spent a great weekend in the south of France. Our visit was
conceived as a pilgrimage to catch up with Titi’s delightful Mami and Maman,
but we hadn’t realized that it would include the perk of an afternoon boat trip
for the two of us to the island of Porquerolle
near Toulon. We almost killed each other in a silly fight inspired by my empty
stomach as we were trying to figure out when the next ferry to get to the island was
leaving. All was gracefully forgotten, though, over a Salade de poulpe which
had le vent en poulpe and splattered all over Titi’s t-shirt, as did the île
flottante that turned into an île volante under the force of the incredible
winds rattling the roof over the terrasse at “le Prado,” a restaurant at La Tour Fondue from whence a 1:30 pm ferry we thought didn’t
exist left under our very eyes. Once on the island, after a terribly pleasant walk along several
vineyards and through the beginnings of a preserved forest that covers most of Porquerolles, we made it to the plage
d’argent where we lolled about for an hour or so, where Titi swam and I dipped my toes
into the water, only to decide it was a little chilly given that we had found a
shady spot under the trees at the beach. The water really was silvery – shallow
for an unusual length for the Mediterranean – and the sand was, too, at least
what of it that was left exposed in the gaps of the flakes of brown algae that
had washed up, lovely, on the shore. While Porquerolle was an unexpected perk,
I had planned on dinner in Marseille Chez Toinou
where I moaned with predictable but overwhelming pleasure at the little bits of
crab that I wheedled from the shell and devoured mussels, sea snails, shrimp,
langoustines, and three varieties of clam. We ended up chez Toinou after an
afternoon stroll through the Panier
a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood that is filled with crafty boutiques and
signs declaring the death of the neighborhood and the greed of financial
speculation.
Seeing as we took care of a little Christmas and housewarming shopping, I guess
we know which side of that fence we were on.
The whole weekend was so charming that, writing this account, I've had to edit out the over-occurrence of the words "little" and "lovely." I've left one "lovely" in for the algae.
But the real inspiration for this blog entry was to
display Lulu once again.
Our suitcase has not yet been put away in the closet,
and she’s decided it’s a nice place to sit. I guess she thinks that if she
sleeps on it all the time, we won’t be able to pack it up and leave her roaming
around the apartment on her own.
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